The best potato masher has a flat, perforated plate rather than a wavy wire, a vertical handle long enough to keep your hand away from hot potatoes, and a head small enough to reach into the corners of the pot. Both America's Test Kitchen and Serious Eats came to the same conclusion about the plate: the holes push potato up and through, so you get a smoother mash in fewer strokes.
If you want the smoothest, fluffiest Thanksgiving mash, a ricer or food mill does better than any masher. Serious Eats compared six mashing methods and put the ricer first, with the food mill close behind. A masher is the faster, simpler tool and is right for anyone who likes a little texture.
This guide covers the difference between the three tools, what separates a good masher from a frustrating one, the picks from independent testers, and the technique that keeps potatoes from turning gluey.
| Perforated masher | Wire masher | Ricer | Food mill | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Texture | Smooth, a few small lumps | Rustic, more lumps | Lightest and fluffiest | Fluffy and very smooth |
| Speed | Fast | Slower | Several rounds of pressing | Slowest |
| Storage | Drawer | Drawer | Drawer | Bulky |
| Best for | Everyday and holiday mash | Chunky smashed potatoes | Restaurant-style mash | Large, silky batches |
Masher vs Ricer vs Food Mill
All three tools break cooked potatoes into small pieces. The difference is how much force they use and how evenly they do it, and that decides both texture and how gluey the result gets.
Potato masher
A handle with a mashing head, either a perforated plate or a bent wire. You press down repeatedly in the pot. Serious Eats rated it good for rustic mashed potatoes but noted it leaves some unmashed chunks and will not give you a cloudlike texture.
Ricer
A hopper with small holes and a plunger on a hinged handle. Squeezing forces the potato through the holes in thin strands. In Serious Eats' November 14, 2025 comparison of six methods, the ricer produced the smoothest mash with no chunks and won outright.
Food mill
A perforated basket with a crank-turned blade that pushes potato through. Serious Eats placed it a close second. Cook's Illustrated found it nearly as fluffy as a ricer and noticeably smoother. It is the bulkiest of the three to store.
Mixers and food processors
Serious Eats found the food processor made gummy potatoes because it overworked the starch, and a hand mixer had the same problem with longer mixing. Cook's Illustrated calls an electric mixer a no-no unless you like gluey potatoes.
What Makes a Good Masher
Testers agree on the main points, and they line up with what you notice after mashing five pounds of potatoes for a crowd.
Plate, not wire
America's Test Kitchen found perforated disks mashed potatoes to a smoother, finer consistency than wavy wires, and faster. Serious Eats saw the same thing: wire mashers missed large pieces with each press and were hard to get into corners.
Many small holes
America's Test Kitchen's preferred mashers had at least 50 holes about 1/4 inch across. Its winner has 66.
A head that reaches the corners
Serious Eats found round or compact heads got into the edges of the pot easily, while a large oval head forced awkward wrist angles. A triangular head also worked well because its points fit into curved corners.
A tall, vertical handle
America's Test Kitchen preferred mashers at least 10 inches tall with a handle at least 5 inches long. Serious Eats found short handles brought hands too close to hot potatoes and liked a vertical handle with some grip over a horizontal one.
What the Testers Picked
Two major testers have current potato masher reviews. Both picked perforated designs.
America's Test Kitchen
In its review dated October 16, 2025, America's Test Kitchen named the Misen Masher its winner. Testers liked its moderately large head with many small holes and its long, cushioned silicone-covered handle, which suited testers of all hand sizes.
Serious Eats
Serious Eats' review, updated July 14, 2026, names the All-Clad Stainless-Steel Potato Masher as the best and most durable. The tester liked its curved edge for mashing against the side of the pot but found the metal handle a little slippery. Its budget pick is the Prepara Potato Masher, and its pick for very little money is the Joseph Joseph Delta Folding Potato Masher, both with fold-up heads.
If you want a ricer
America's Test Kitchen's ricer review, dated June 11, 2025, names the Chef'n FreshForce Potato Ricer Plus the winner for its geared hinge, which makes squeezing easier, and the RSVP International Potato Ricer as the best buy. The RSVP comes with interchangeable disks but takes more effort and has more parts to wash.
How to Get Smooth, Not Gluey, Potatoes
Gluey mashed potatoes come from overworking. Cook's Illustrated explains that cooked potato starch granules are swollen, and once they burst they release a sticky gel that turns the mash gluey. The goal is to break the potatoes up with the gentlest touch you can.
Pick russets for fluffy mash
Cook's Illustrated's mashed potato recipe uses russets, simmered whole and unpeeled in water covering them by 1 inch until just tender, about 20 to 30 minutes.
Mash while hot
The same recipe peels the potatoes while hot and runs them straight through a ricer or food mill into the warm, empty saucepan.
Butter first, then warm dairy
Stir in the butter until just incorporated, then add warmed half-and-half and stir until just combined. Adding fat before liquid is the order Cook's Illustrated uses.
Stop sooner than you think
Serious Eats warns that you can over-mash with a hand masher too. The more the potatoes are broken up, the more starch they release. Mash until the big lumps are gone, then stop.
Skip the blender and processor
Both Serious Eats and Cook's Illustrated advise against them for mashed potatoes. The blades move too fast and overwork the starch.
How to Choose a Potato Masher
Once you have decided between a masher and a ricer, these points narrow down the right model.
Perforated head
Choose a flat plate with many small holes. Testers found it mashed faster and left fewer lumps than a wire head.
Head size and shape
A compact round, rounded rectangle, or triangular head reaches the corners of a saucepan. A wide oval head is harder to angle.
Handle height
Look for a masher about 10 inches tall or more, so your knuckles stay clear of hot potatoes and steam.
Grip
A silicone or rubber-coated vertical handle is easier to hold when your hand is damp. Bare metal can slip.
One-piece build
A solid stainless masher is the most durable. Folding heads save drawer space, though Serious Eats noted one budget folding model clicked during use.
Easy cleaning
Mashed potato dries like glue. Serious Eats' winners were all dishwasher-safe, but rinse the head right away either way.
Photo by IARA MELO on Pexels
Which Tool to Buy
Most kitchens need only one of these. Pick by the texture you want and how much you make.
Perforated potato masher
The quickest route to a good mash, and America's Test Kitchen also used it on beans and ground beef. America's Test Kitchen's winner is the Misen Masher and Serious Eats' is the All-Clad Stainless-Steel Potato Masher.
Look for
- At least 50 small holes
- Head that fits into pot corners
- Tall vertical handle with grip
Watch out for
- Leaves some small lumps
- Wavy wire models need more strokes
Potato ricer
The top tool in Serious Eats' six-way comparison. It presses potato into fine strands without overworking the starch. America's Test Kitchen's winner is the Chef'n FreshForce Potato Ricer Plus.
Look for
- Large hopper to cut down on refills
- Many perforations
- Rounded, comfortable handles
Watch out for
- Takes several rounds for a big batch
- Hand fatigue on cheaper models
Peel Five Pounds of Potatoes Without the Mess: Get the ROO Mat
ROO is a silicone mat that sits under your cutting board. It grips the counter so the board stays put while you peel and cube, and its 7-cup pouch hangs over the edge to catch the peels. It works under the board you already own.
Shop the ROO Mat →Food mill
Nearly as fluffy as a ricer and smoother, according to Cook's Illustrated, and Serious Eats ranked it a close second to the ricer. It takes longer to use and more room to store.
Look for
- Fine perforations
- Hooks that sit firmly on a pot
- Stainless steel basket
Watch out for
- Bulky to store
- Slowest of the three
Upgrade Your Prep Workflow: The ROO Bundle
Before any mashing, there are five pounds of potatoes to peel and cube, and that is where the counter gets messy. The ROO Mat sits under your cutting board so it does not slide while you cut, and its built-in pouch hangs over the counter edge to catch up to 7 cups of peels. The ROO Bundle adds a rubberwood board that fits the mat.
Upgrade Your Prep Workflow: Get the ROO Bundle
A rubberwood board that is gentle on knives, a non-slip silicone base, and a 7-cup scrap pouch.
Check out the ROO Bundle →How This Guide Was Put Together
This guide is built from independent equipment reviews and tested recipe technique. Masher picks come from America's Test Kitchen's potato masher review dated October 16, 2025, and Serious Eats' potato masher review updated July 14, 2026. Ricer picks come from America's Test Kitchen's review dated June 11, 2025. The method comparison comes from Serious Eats' test of six mashing methods published November 14, 2025, and Cook's Illustrated's mashing method findings and mashed potato recipe (published August 22, 2007). All sources were checked October 12, 2026. We did not test these tools ourselves. ROO makes a silicone cutting board mat and a rubberwood board, not mashers or ricers.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Is a potato ricer better than a masher?
For texture, yes. Serious Eats ranked the ricer first of six methods for light, smooth potatoes. A masher is faster and simpler and gives a more rustic mash.
What type of potato masher is best?
One with a flat, perforated plate. America's Test Kitchen and Serious Eats both found perforated heads mashed smoother and faster than wavy wire heads.
Why are my mashed potatoes gluey?
They were overworked. Bursting the cooked starch granules releases a sticky gel. Food processors, blenders, and long beating with a mixer cause it most often, but heavy mashing can do it too.
Can I use a hand mixer for mashed potatoes?
You can, but testers do not recommend it. Serious Eats found a hand mixer made gummy potatoes, and Cook's Illustrated advises against electric mixers.
Should I add butter or milk first?
Butter first. Cook's Illustrated stirs in butter until just incorporated, then adds warm half-and-half and stirs until just combined.
Is a food mill worth it for mashed potatoes?
If you make large batches and want silky potatoes, yes. Cook's Illustrated found it nearly as fluffy as a ricer and smoother. It is bulky and slower than a ricer.
For most kitchens, a perforated masher with a tall handle is all you need, and a ricer is worth adding if smooth, fluffy potatoes are the point of your Thanksgiving table. Whichever you use, mash gently and stop once the lumps are gone.